Sakhumzi

 
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Tasty bites between cultural sights
This shocking-pink hillside cafe in Soweto's Vilakazi Street is next door to Desmond Tutu's former home, just down the street from Nelson Mandela's and an easy walk from the Hector Pieterson Memorial and museum to the children's revolt that helped turn the world against apartheid. Airy and pleasant; you'd hardly know Madiba and his neighbors were dodging gunshots here not that long ago. My plate of pap (a black SA staple like polenta), chicken and spicy sauce was perhaps the best $5 meal I've ever had. Full bar -- a full-to-the-brim glass of sauvignon blanc set me back another $3. For years, this was the smartest black neighborhood in southern Africa, and it's comparatively easy to find. Some guidebooks will tell you it's OK to drive yourself here in the daytime; ask locally first, and avoid public transport. Tables indoors and out. The Orlando West soccer stadium (not a World Cup site) is within earshot.

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